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St Columba called the island, ‘Iona of my heart’. George MacLeod, founder of the Iona Community, described it as ‘a thin place’, where earth and heaven are not far apart. Just what is it that makes this place so special?

Is it about history? Yes, and no, because Iona is about history that is still being made. The opening responses to the Iona Abbey morning service include the words, ‘If Christ’s disciples keep silent, these stones would shout aloud. Open our lips O God, and our mouths shall proclaim your praise.’ They have done so for a long, long time, and they continue to so today, through the restored Abbey itself, and through the ongoing work of the Iona Community.

In late April, a group of 32 members of the churches in Mersey Synod took a pilgrimage journey to Iona to discover for ourselves what all the fuss is about. After travelling in the rain, and passing snow on the mountains above Loch Lomond and Glen Orchy we arrived to glorious Spring weather, and remained dry throughout our week on the island.

A stay at the Abbey is not a holiday. It is participation in community life and of the programme of one’s own group. The community comprised ourselves, the staff of the Abbey, staff and residents of the MacLeod Centre, and others staying in the Abbey – a group looking at the principles of non-violent protest, and a Uniting Church minister from Australia and her husband. A great, varied community, but with a real heart to make that community real.

Community life meant sharing meals, worshipping together, and sharing responsibility for the ‘housework’. Each group of eight was given a daily meal responsibility, and one other job. Our group’s ‘other job’ was to clean the toilets. After being told this, not one member of the group could remember that we had a meal task as well!

Worship took place twice daily – after breakfast and at the end of the day. This was vital for the community, and open to anyone. This was truly the world Church together as one body. Services, led often by young staff and volunteers from around the world, were challenging and uplifting, and a great blessing.

Our URC programme was a series of Bible studies led by Synod Moderator, the Revd Graham Cook. We explored the theme of the Old Testament – in forty minutes, and yes, we understood it clearly. We delved into the Acts of the Apostles, focussing on the nature of the Churches in Jerusalem and Antioch. We read 1 Corinthians, (Yes, the whole thing!) aloud, in groups of three. Sitting in the transcept of the Abbey, reading aloud while tourists passed by was a special experience. It took around 1? hours. We then discussed the many important themes raised in the epistle, and with the variety of people and views present, this was a valuable time of community building.

When we arrived at the Abbey, we were told that some visitors had felt the programme was exhausting, starting as it does at 7.15 am and ending sometimes after midnight. ‘Don’t worry’, we were told. ‘You don’t have to attend everything. Go only to the things you want to, and leave the rest.’ The problem was, no one wanted to miss out on anything. Besides, there was plenty of time to catch up on sleep on the coach journey home.

Built into the programme were substantial periods of free time, and physical activities. As visitors cannot bring vehicles onto the island, the only way to get around was to walk. And we did, every day. Exploring the bays and beaches was pure delight. The weekly pilgrimage, a walk around the holy and historical sites of the island is an all day affair, normally nine miles long, but the foot and mouth troubles reduced this somewhat for us. This was the one cold day of the week, but at least we stayed dry. The walk is a highlight of any visit to Iona, and really does give one a sense that this is the cradle of Christianity in Scotland, and that its role in the evangelisation of Britain is enormous.

Iona is in one of the most beautiful situations on earth. The many islands which can been seen from the top of Dun I, the highest point, beg to be visited, and amongst them lies Staffa, renowned for spectacular rock formations, for Fingal’s Cave, and for its birdlife. This small island, nestled in behind Mull, is a short boat ride from Iona. It is said to be ‘the other end of the Giant’s Causeway’, as it has the same basalt pillar like rocks. Seen from the sea it is an mind-boggling sight. Sitting amongst puffins, which are brave enough to come right up to humans, is simply wonderful.

Thirty two tired people, fitter, refreshed in spirit and body, returned home, their lives greatly enriched. Why not encourage your Synod / District Council / local Church to arrange a week’s pilgrimage for you to this special place? You will be glad you did.

The Revd Ian Croft a minister of the Presbyterian Church
of Aotearoa New Zealand serving in the Coast Group
in the Northern Synod.