The
second of three articles by Reform Editor David Lawrence on a trip to
visit Christian Aid partners in Israel/Palestine
(Jan
2003)
They call it ‘The Prison’ – 140 square miles of parched land – just
over half the size of Merseyside – stretched out along the coast where
Israel meets Egypt. It is the Gaza Strip, home to 1.2 million
Palestinians: three-quarters have the status of refugees, more than
half are under 18, almost none can leave the 25 mile ribbon. Perhaps
the president of the French charity Medecins Sans Frontieres caught
the reality best when he described
Gaza as ‘a vast open-air detention centre, watched, from
land, sea and air, by war machines (planes, helicopters, armoured
cars, and boats) and their faceless pilots.’
It is a hard place, where the distinction between water and life is
difficult to make. And it is a crowded place. Population density in
Gaza is just over 8,500 people per square mile, much like
London.
But Gaza must find land to feed itself and make room for some 7000
Israeli settlers, the estimated 20,000 Israeli soldiers who protect
them and the security zones which surround their armed colonies,
illegal under international law. In the 22% of the strip devoted to
Palestinian residential areas, population density often exceeds 30,000
people per square mile.
into the prison
It was around
9 am when the eight members of the Christian Aid group arrived at
the Erez checkpoint. The only other travellers were a small party of
American Christians and one or two plush cars awaiting diplomats or
VIPs. In past years the checkpoint would be thronged every morning
with thousands of Palestinian workers queuing to get into
Israel but those days
are gone. As we entered
Gaza we saw the concrete walls of the new industrial area –
legally outside
Israel
so that it escapes Israeli legislation on wages and pollution, entry
is nevertheless under Israeli control. The factories use cheap
Palestinian labour but do not contribute to the development of a
genuine Palestinian economy. Even so, the jobs are welcome in an area
where it is is estimated that 80% of the population now live below the
official poverty level of £1.25 ($2) a day.
Caring for refugees
We were guests for the morning of the Middle Eastern Council of
Churches for a whirlwind tour of some of their work with refugees. Our
trip took us into one of Gaza’s many refugee camps, some of the most
crowded areas on earth. No law compels the 400,000 refugees to remain
crowded into the camps, it is simply that for most residents there is
nowhere else to go – even if they had the money to move.
When we arrived, a young Palestinian policeman was nervously eying the
needle wielded by a dentist in the mobile dental clinic built into the
back of a van parked outside the mother and baby clinic. There, we
heard of the growing rates of malnutrition and anaemia among local
children and saw the tiny dispensary, which hands out subsidized drugs
and the compact laboratory on which the doctors rely for test results.
The other main side of the MECC’s work is educational. We saw the
sparse workshops where young men and boys learned carpentry, metal and
electrical work. A range of courses in dressmaking skills are offered
to women of all ages – on equipment of all ages. In the conservative
atmosphere of much Palestinian culture, dressmaking is considered an
ideal occupation, allowing women to work from home and contribute to
family finances. Elsewhere, mainly younger women were learning
secretarial skills, getting to grips with information technology in a
smart new computer room or developing their skills in English.
Heartened though we were, it was sad to be reminded that many of those
taking part in the programmes would have difficulty in finding outlets
for their new skills in the devastated economy.
Rights and wrongs
The work of the Palestinian Centre for Human Rights, another Christian
Aid partner, has been recognized and applauded around the globe. Its
Director, Raji Sourani, is an intense and animated lawyer who holds
the dubious distinction of having been imprisoned by both the Israeli
and Palestinian authorities. Imprisoned four times by the Israelis, he
spares visitors the details of the beatings and physical and mental
abuse he suffered at their hands. His last period of incarceration,
for criticizing the PNA’s decision to set up a state security court,
lasted only 18 hours before he was released in a blizzard of protest
faxes from around the world. The Centre he heads works to protect
human rights, promote the rule of law, foster the growth of democracy
and to support the ‘inalienable right’ of the Palestinian people to
self-determination and independence. Its publications, including its
website, are among the most respected sources of information on what
is really happening in the occupied territories.
The Centre labours against huge odds to provide legal aid and counsel
to those whose human rights are threatened, its work complicated by
the bizarre mix of Ottoman Turk, British, Jordanian, Egyptian and
Israeli law to which Gaza’s history makes it heir – which laws are
applied usually depending on the whim of the authorities. Legal
institutions find it almost impossible to function because of the
regular ‘closures’ which make movement around the Gaza Strip
impossible – some 40% of the Strip is actually under Israeli control
and there are more than 40 military checkpoints or road barriers in
the remainder. It was a familiar theme when talking to Palestinian
professionals: time and time again we were told that even to make an
appointment for next week was impossible because arbitrary closures of
checkpoints made commitments impossible to keep. To know what your day
will be like in
Gaza you do not look at your diary, you listen to the
news.
Advocating the rule of law in Palestinian territories does not always
make the PCHR popular. Palestinian officials often find it difficult
to understand why the Centre criticizes their actions when their human
rights performance is better than that of other Arab states. The PCHR
also opposes the use of the death penalty for ‘collaborators’ – those
who have been bribed, frightened or coerced into co-operating secretly
with the Israeli occupying forces. The PCHR’s courageous stand against
the execution of people whose information has led directly to the
death and injury of fellow citizens goes down badly with the general
public.
Practical compassion
The following morning we travelled south to the town of Khan Younis,
passing nervously through the grim armoured checkpoint which straddles
the one main road and divides Gaza into two. The cramped town centre
bustled with people eager to make the best use of the time before the
Israeli-imposed curfew.
On the edge of the town, butting up against abandoned two-story houses
riddled with bullet and shell holes was the ugly concrete security
wall of the illegal Jani Tall ‘settlement’ from which Israeli forces
make incursions into Khan Younis. It was hard not to feel afraid under
the gaze of the gun emplacements or the sniper cage suspended high in
the air by a tall crane – most people have stories of what they
describe as random shootings. It was also hard not to feel anger at
the provocation of placing an armed colony here, just about as far
from Israeli territory as it was possible to get.
We had come to Khan Yunis to see the work of the Cultural and Free
Thought Association – a grand name for a piece of immensely practical
and compassionate work. The CFTA was set up in 1992 by five women who
wanted to help children in a local refugee camp. They rented a piece
of land previously used for sewage and garbage collection and set to
work cleaning it up. Over the years they have run leisure activities,
a library and even a theatre on the site. Today the CFTA also runs
play centres for local children, a centre for teenagers, a women’s
centre and a loan scheme for women.
Since the start of the Second Intifada in the year 2000, with local
people’s attention focussed on food and survival rather than leisure,
the CFTA has run environmental improvement schemes which give local
people the dignity of a wage with which to buy their own food.
The weather was bright and sunny for our visit to a CFTA children’s
centre and no-one could have failed to be impressed by the riot of
activity. Though the buildings were poorer and the facilities limited,
the atmosphere was like nothing so much as play-time at a British
primary school. Inside the rough buildings playdough and poster paint
were much in evidence and we were surrounded by children demanding to
have their picture taken with their latest artistic creation. In
another room a small group sat reading with an adult volunteer, while
others built miraculously tall towers out of wooden blocks or played
with a collection of battered toys. Most of the children, however,
seem to be enjoying themselves frenetically outside. Safe places to
play are at a premium in Khan Yunis, where many children have spent a
large part of the last two years locked inside their houses, their
sleep regular disturbed by gunfire and explosions. So while some were
led in gymnastics, others let off steam throwing light plastic balls
with all their might at a colourful wall inside a wire netting cage.
It was a poignant contrast to the image of children throwing stones at
soldiers with guns.
A model partner
On the afternoon of our second day in Gaza we arrived at an
institution which needs little introduction to readers of Reform: The
Palestinian Agricultural Relief Committees. PARC has been a URC
partner through our Commitment for Life scheme since 1992 and its
story is always one of hope and encouragement. It exists to help
Palestine’s
small farmers (90% of the total) to develop their skills, find new
markets and shift to safer and more sustainable ways of farming. Along
the way it promotes rural development, environmental protection and,
in a host of practical ways, the status of women in rural communities.
Its administration is recognized as model of efficiency – it even
provides training courses to newly graduated agricultural engineers to
provide the technical and managerial skills neglected in university
courses. It has pioneered the use of rainfall collection and
distributes thousands of seedlings annually. It is helping small
farmers to set up their own specialized growers’ organizations for
mutual support and backing consciousness-raising ‘Clean Up’ campaigns
to improve the environment. One recent emphasis has been on ‘urban
agriculture’, using even small amounts of land available to produce
food – even to the extent of planting trees which produce olives or
dates alongside roads, rather than simply regarding public trees as
decorative.
Land
and water
Since the beginning of the Second Intifada, however, PARC’s work has
necessarily shifted in emphasis towards relief and emergency aid. PARC
estimates that more than 13,000 acres of agricultural land have been
destroyed by the Israeli authorities and that it will take 5-10 years
in many cases for the land to be rehabilitated. Now the fear is that a
proposed one kilometre wide ‘security strip’ around the entire Gaza
Strip – within the borders of the Strip – will result in a further
massive loss of agricultural land.
The remaining farmers find themselves almost totally cut off from
export markets – indeed, given the regularity of closures, it is often
impossible to move produce even to markets within the Gaza Strip. When
it is possible to get produce to local markets it sells at a half or a
third of the cost of production. PARC is engaged in a major programme
to feed 6000 families whose land has either been ruined or closed to
them. Another programme, in co-operation with the Palestine National
Authority, offers rural work such as tree pruning and installing
irrigation networks. Workers can earn up to 40 shekels (£5.50) a day
but can work for only 30 days before the chance must be passed on to
someone else.
A continuing concern for PARC is the deteriorating state of Gaza’s
water supply. The only reliable supply of fresh water in the Strip
comes from artesian wells which tap natural reservoirs deep
underground. In the south-west of the Strip, Israeli settlers are
pumping vast quantities of water from the underground reserves, some
it piped out of
Gaza to settlements cultivating the
Negev Desert. So much
water has been removed that sea-water is beginning to seep into the
aquifers and, in many places, sewage contamination adds to the
problem. With many crops already disappearing from the Gaza Strip due
to the declining water quality (citrus-growing in the south of the
strip has all but disappeared) the effect of any further reduction in
water supplies would be little short of disastrous.
A painful parting
Our last appointment in the
Gaza strip was unexpected. PARC had learned that Israeli
bulldozers had destroyed a grove of olive trees nearby the previous
evening. We drove the short distance along dusty back-roads to view
the remains of a farm which had been scraped clean of life. In tears,
the elderly farmer told us he had tended the same land with its olive
trees for 50 years – it had been his life, and the livelihood of his
family. All that remained were a few upturned roots. Nearby we
examined the ruined mechanism of an ancient mechanical water pump
which had been destroyed for good measure. A few other local people
began to gather, attracted by the sight of the strangers with their
cameras. They invited us to come and see what else had happened the
previous night.
Half a mile down the road we found what seemed the whole of the
population of the tiny community gathered to comfort one family.
Israeli soldiers had come in the night to arrest their son, a common
experience for families in the Strip. The method was simple: a tank
had rolled up to the back of the small concrete house and demolished
the wall, with the family inside. We stood amidst the rubble which
filled the remaining rooms. A few cheap toys, a broken fan and some
stained mattresses lay on the floor. We thought at first that this was
all that remained but then realized it was all they had had in the
first place. None of us knew what to say, or how to answer the
question addressed to us time and time again: ‘Why?’ But as we left,
we promised to tell their story so that at least others might ask the
same question.
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